Securing a boat without coming alongside a quay or pontoon can be done by mooring and anchoring. Moorings are laid in harbours, rivers, and bays providing convenient securing points for visiting or resident yachts. Learning anchoring techniques allows for the choice of a remote anchorage on an overnight stop or riding out a gale.

Sailboat Mooring

A sailboat mooring is one or more heavy anchors or seabed weights attached to a heavy chain riser. This riser is attached to a floating mooring buoy. Light craft boat moorings have a small buoy that is picked up and brought on board through a bow fairlead and secured to a cleat. Other sailboat moorings consist of a larger mooring buoy fitted with a ring on top to where the boat is tied with a mooring line, or a separate small pick-up buoy and is brought aboard to secure the boat. Laid in rows called trots, boat moorings are found along the edges of river channels in line with the tidal flow.

Choosing a Sailboat Mooring

When visiting a harbour with visitors' boat mooring buoys, select a suitable boat mooring which is strong enough and in water deep so that the yacht still floats at low tide. Ensure there is enough room for the yacht to swing around the buoy with the wind and tide without interfering with other craft. If planning an overnight stop, consider how sheltered the mooring is from wind and swell.

Assess how easy is it to approach and leave the boat mooring under power or sail, as well as its proximity to other boats and the shore. Be sure not to pick up a permanent mooring, as the owner may return and claim the berth.

Picking Up Mooring Buoys

Before picking up fore-and-aft buoys, check their suitability for the size of boat. Reaching buoys from the deck of a yacht has its difficulties. To be at the level to effectively pick up a buoy, the crew may have to lie on the deck with a boathook. Some fore-and-aft buoys have smaller pick-up buoys attached, making it easier for them to be pick up. When leaving, tie the pick-up buoys together which makes recovery easier. Check the quality of the rope attaching them to the main buoys and if in doubt, rig your own lines to the mooring buoys.

Sailboat Anchoring

Yachts should be equipped with two boat anchors which are rated to hold it securely in gale force conditions. The main or 'bower' boat anchor is the heavier of the two and matched to at least 50 metres of chain. The second or 'kedge' boat anchor should have 6 metres of heavy chain and at least 100 metres of plaited or braided nylon anchor warp.

For short stops, the kedge is used when the weather is good, or for kedging-off the boat after running aground. The Bruce, CQR, Danforth, and Fortress anchors are all suitable boat anchors as they bury themselves well into seabeds of shingle, sand, or mud. The Bruce is popular as a bower anchor, and the Fortress anchor is a good kedge option. A Fisherman's anchor is superior when anchoring on a rocky seabed. Offshore sailing requires the use the heaviest boat anchor that can be fitted on the yacht as it gives surety in exposed anchorages.

Boat anchor cable should be chain, although heavier than rope it is stronger. A nylon rope is suitable for the kedge as sometimes the boat anchor is used from the tender where being lighter than chain makes positioning the anchor much easier. The standard practice is to install a short length of chain between the boat anchor and the rope to protect from chafing from the seabed and combined with its catenary, acts as a spring in gale-force conditions. The end of the chain or the bitter end is secured to a strong eye bolt with a rope lashing which can be cut in an emergency.

The holding power of a boat anchor is dependent on the amount of cable that is payed out; and in turn, will depend on the amount of cable carried and the depth of water. The minimum scope for chain is 3:1 and for rope 5:1 but where sufficient cable is available, increase these ratios to 5:1 and 8:1 respectively. An exposed anchorage in rough conditions, paying out ten or more times the depth of water prevents the anchor dragging. Allow for the rise of tide if anchoring at low water. Anchors and Chain

Choosing an Anchorage

Choosing an anchorage requires a check of tidal curves to determine the minimum depth at low tide. Allowances for boats already moored should be made, particularly if some are on rope and others on chain as they have different swinging circles.

Changing Conditions

A sheltered anchorage from the wind at the time of anchoring may become untenable if there is a wind change and the anchorage becomes exposed. This also may happen when there is a change of direction of the tidal stream causing a change in the sea state.

Check the weather forecast before anchoring, taking into account any predicted changes in wind direction or strength. Consult the tidal atlas and tide tables to assess if the changes will affect the anchorage. If anchoring in shallow water, check the water level at low tide and whether there is sufficient water to keep afloat and to allow the yacht to leave safely at any time.

Arriving and Leaving a Mooring or Anchorage

The approach and leaving techniques to moor and anchor are similar. The differences are the equipment and crew procedure. When arriving, decide on a method and route of approach with the aim of stopping the yacht at a spot to drop anchor or pick up the boat mooring.

More precision is required when picking up a buoy than anchoring. When anchoring, stop the yacht in the chosen spot and as the boat anchor is dropped, move the boat backwards to prevent the chain from fouling the anchor. A system of hand signals to allow communication between the foredeck and the cockpit is preferable as noise interferes with the spoken word.

Boat anchors and anchor chains on most cruising yachts of up to 10 metres can be handled safely without winches. On yachts greater than 10 metres, the use of manual or electric anchor winches to handle anchors and chains is essential.

Arriving Under Sail

When the wind forwards of the beam approach on a close reach under mainsail alone.

• Let the sail flap in your final approach to stop the yacht
• If anchoring, wait for the boat to stop before dropping the anchor.
• Lower the mainsail after the yacht has fallen back and the anchor is set or mooring secured.

• Sail towards the mooring buoy or anchor spot under headsail alone.
• If the boat moves too fast in strong winds, with the headsail sheet eased, lower or furl the headsail and sail under bare poles.
• In light winds, partly hoist the top of the mainsail to create sufficient power to counter the tide.

Leaving Under Sail

How to leave is determined by the wind direction. Decide on the route and check for obstructions, then brief the crew.

• If lying to a boat mooring, the boat is given steerage way by the buoy being pulled aft along one side before releasing it.
• When an anchor is being recovered, provide steerage way by pulling the boat to the anchor.
• If the wind is from ahead of the beam, leave under mainsail only or in light conditions, mainsail and headsail together.
• If it is on or abaft the beam, leave under headsail alone.
• Break the anchor out before the headsail is hoisted sailing slowly as the anchor is stowed.
• Hoist the headsail when ready to drop the mooring.
• Sheet it in and sail away.
• Sail into clear water before turning head-to-wind.
• Hoist the mainsail then sail off on the preferred course.

Arriving Under Power

Approach a boat mooring or anchorage under power into the strongest element either the wind or the tide. This gives maximum control over where the yacht stops. If not sure what is the stronger element, look at similar boat types that are moored or anchored. Plan the course to clear other boats or obstructions along with an escape route in case of unforeseen circumstances. Brief the crew and have them prepare a mooring warp or anchor and cable.

Leaving Under Power

• When leaving, the yacht will be pointing towards the wind or tide, whatever is the strongest.
• This is the direction that the boat will set off, unless there is an obstruction.
• Drop the mooring buoy or motor forward to pick up the anchor.
• Reduce speed as you head into the wind or tide

Mooring

It is preferable to pick up a mooring than to come alongside. One or two crew members have a mooring line and boathook ready pick up the boat mooring. To check the approach and inspect the mooring’s pick-up arrangement, make a dummy run. With larger cruisers, the bow can be high out of the water causing difficulty in picking up the buoy or to thread a mooring line. If this is the case, come alongside the buoy where the freeboard is usually less, just forwards of the shrouds.

• The foredeck crew equip themselves with a boathook and mooring warp.
• When making the approach, the helmsman may lose sight of buoy in the final stage, so the foredeck crew should indicate the position and distance of the buoy by hand signals.
• When the buoy is alongside, the foredeck crew hooks the buoy and either pulls the pick-up buoy on board or ties the mooring line to the buoy ring or to the chain under the buoy.
• A round-turn through the ring is made and then a bowline is tied.
• If a pick-up buoy is pulled aboard, the condition of the rope or chain between it and the main riser should be checked. If the condition of the rope or chain is unsound, use a warp to tie to the main chain with the mooring line being led through a fairlead.
• Lead the strop through the bow roller to a substantial cleat, bollard or Sampson post.
• Secure the lighter rope of the pick-up buoy over the strop to prevent it skipping off and insert the bow roller pin to prevent the strop jumping out of the bow roller.

Leaving a Boat Mooring

When leaving a boat mooring, the foredeck crew prepares to disengage from the buoy immediately on command. If a pick-up buoy is aboard, its line is uncleated and held with a turn around the cleat. When the buoy is dropped, the skipper is informed when it is clear of the boat. If a mooring rope has been tied to the buoy or chain, it is led again as a slip line and can then be easily released and recovered. Buoys and Fenders

Anchoring Techniques

Dropping an Anchor

• Prepare the boat anchor and the required cable prior to the final approach.
• Release any lashings or securing pins on the anchor bow roller.
• Assess water depth and allow the minimum of three times the depth for the amount of cable required.
• This length is prepared on deck and ready to run without snagging and then cleated.
• When the boat has reached the anchoring spot, and is stopped or moving astern, let go the anchor.
• It should be lowered and not dropped free
• The cable is allowed to run out under control until the anchor reaches the bottom.
• Pay out the cable as the yacht drifts away from the anchor and then snub to set.
• Take a bearing on two or more points on shore to check that the anchor is not dragging.
• If the anchor drags, feed out more cable and if still dragging, haul the anchor up and try another spot.

Weighing an Anchor

The ease in recovery of a boat anchor depends on the weight of anchor and cable, the depth of water, wind and sea conditions, along with the strength of the crew or anchor windlass.

• Bring the boat over the anchor by pulling in the cable or in strong conditions, with the help of the engine or sails.
• When the bow of the boat is over the anchor, the crew informs the skipper that the anchor is ready to break out.
• The anchor is hauled up by the cable either by hand or windlass until the anchor breaks out of the seabed.
• The yacht is motored or sailed slowly until the foredeck crew have stowed the anchor.
• If the anchor is unable to be broken out by hand or windlass, haul the cable tight then cleat it using the power of the engine or sails to break it out.

Laying Two Boat Anchors

Extra security can be provided by laying two boat anchors, either both in line on one cable, or at a 30-45° angle to each other using two cables. If riding out a strong wind from a certain direction, lay two anchors in the direction of the expected wind.

To stop the yacht swinging far as the tide changes, lay two boat anchors ahead and astern of the boat. This requires dropping the main anchor and reversing the boat while paying out twice the length of cable needed. Drop the second kedge anchor from the bow, and then pull in the main cable while letting out the kedge cable and position the yacht midway between the boat anchors. With a shackle, join the two cables then lower the join below the boat's keel and secure both cables on cleats.

Using a Tripping Line

It is easy for an boat anchor to become fouled by an obstruction on the seabed. Motoring from several directions around the anchor and pulling its chain can free it, but avoid the problem by using a tripping line.

A tripping line is a light line tied to the crown of the boat anchor with the other end either brought back on board or attached to a small buoy to float over the anchor. In crowded anchorages using a buoy on the tripping line may mean that the line gets caught by another boat's propeller.

When the boat anchor is fouled, it is retrieved by pulling on the tripping line which capsizes the anchor releasing its grip on the seabed.

Laying a Boat Anchor from a Tender

It will be necessary at some time to use the tender to lay or recover a boat anchor. It is more controllable with a solid dinghy rather than an inflatable. Rope cable makes the operation simpler than using chain.

When laying a boat anchor from the tender, secure the tender alongside the yacht then transfer the anchor and the cable into the dinghy. So that the cable will run out smoothly, coil it in the stern of the tender and make the end fast aboard the yacht. The anchor is much easier to handle if it is hung over the tender's stern and tied to the thwart with a slip hitch allowing the release the anchor while seated.

Row or motor the tender in the direction the anchor is to be laid. When all the cable has run out the retaining line is slipped to release the anchor. The crew on board pulls in the slack setting the anchor.

Retrieving a Boat Anchor

Some occasions may require the recovery of a boat anchor using the tender, usually when two anchors have been set and both cannot be recovered from the yacht. Recovering an anchor may be hazardous in an inflatable whereas a rigid dinghy is easier and safer.

With the cable running over the tender, it is then pulled along the anchor cable until the cable leads down to the boat anchor. The tender's buoyancy and a strong pull on the cable should break out the anchor, which is then pulled up into the tender. Return to the yacht by pulling on the cable, coiling it as you go.

Boat Anchors and Anchoring

Pile Mooring

Some tidal harbours or rivers have pile moorings which provide fore and aft moorings along the edges of a channel, parallel to the main tide flow. Piles are large wooden or metal stakes driven into the seabed equipped with mooring fittings. Boats often raft up between pile moorings but there is usually a limit to the number of boats allowed on each pair of piles. When rafted between pile mooring, all the boats must secure to the piles as well as to the neighbouring vessels.

Leaving under Power

Leaving a pile mooring is a simple procedure the only consideration is the exit in relation to any nearby hazards. When lying alone between a pair of piles, leave into the tide, either bow or stern first. If inside a raft, recover the pile lines using the tender, then leave as for a raft. If on the outside, recover your pile lines and leave as for an alongside berth.

Leave into the Tide

• Pull the yacht up to the up tide pile and pay out the other line.
• If leaving bow first, rig the bow line as a slip
• Drop back to the stern pile and release it.
• Motor ahead and slip the bow line.

• When a strong wind on the beam may cause difficulties
• Rig both bow and stern lines as slips.
• Ease both out allowing the boat to blow to leeward
• Slip both lines and motor away into the tide.

Arriving under Power

Picking up a pile mooring is simple if selecting empty piles then only two mooring lines are needed and the operation can be completed from on deck. If choosing to come alongside another boat, approach as for an alongside berth and six warps, plus fenders will be needed, and the tender will be used to attach the pile lines. Plan to approach into the strongest element and brief the crew in advance with a boathook handy, and the mooring lines.

Running Moor

• Stop the yacht alongside the rear pile
• Keep the pile ahead of the shrouds when stopped.
• Attach the stern line.
• Motor forwards to the bow pile and attach the bow line.
• Adjust both lines positioning the yacht midway between the piles.

A Strong Wind on Beam

• Approach the leeward side of stern pile
• Stop with the pile alongside the windward shroud.
• Secure the stern line.
• With the bow angled to windward, motor forward.
• Stop with the bow pile on the leeward bow.
• Secure the bow line
• Centre the yacht between the piles.

Leaving Under Sail

To leave under sail is a fairly easy manoeuvre if berthed alone between pile moorings. If the yacht is the outside boat in a raft on piles it may be possible to leave under sail if on the leeward side, after using the tender to recover the pile lines.

Pile moorings are found in tidal areas so it is best to leave bow into the tide giving the most control. If lying stern to the tide, use warps to turn the boat before trying to leave. Now with the bow pointing into the tide, the method of leaving is determined by wind direction.

Under sail, use the mainsail alone, or with the headsail, with the wind forward of the beam, and the headsail alone if the wind is on or aft of the beam. Rig the bow and stern lines as slips before hoisting sails, and manipulate them to turn the yacht to help it sail off.

Wind Forward of the Beam

• Rig both pile lines as slips
• Prepare the mainsail for hoisting.
• Hoist the mainsail and let it flap freely
• Cast off the stern line.
• Pull in on the bow line to give the boat steerage way,
• Slip the bow line and sail away.

Arriving Under Sail

When approaching a pile mooring under sail make the approach into the strongest element.

• Brief the crew well in advance,
• Make a dummy run to assess the situation.
• Prepare bow and stern lines and have a boathook to hand.

• Make the bow warp fast.
• Lower the mainsail
• Drop back to the stern pile to attach the stern warp.
• Centre the yacht between the piles.

• Use the jib sheet to control speed.
• In this case, use a running moor (above).
• Let the jib flap to stop by the stern pile first.
• Attach the stern warp
• Sail on to the bow pile to attach the bow warp.
• Where the wind is light and the yacht cannot make way over the tide, hoist the top part of the mainsail to produce extra drive.